Lesson 5: Cone

Lesson 5: Cone

• Draw out your cone on paper in side view.
• Make sure that your drawing is to scale.
• Using a compass, place the point at the tip of the cone, and adjust the legs so that the pencil tip hits each corner.
• Draw ¾ of a circle with the compass.
• Measure and set your compass to the distance between the 2 bottom points.
• Place your compass point on the left point and make a tic mark with the pencil.
• Repeat with the right point.
• Bring your compass in to 1/6 of the previous length.
• Mark this distance onto the end of one of your tic marks.
• This will give you 3.14 (pi- π) the diameter of your cone!
• Draw straight lines from the center point out to the end tic marks.
• This is your pattern for your cone.
• Make sure that you have made notes on each measurement.
• If you like, cut out the paper template and bend and tape to make sure it is the right shape that you are looking for.
• When you are happy with your paper version, repeat the layout process on metal, using dividers instead of the compass.
• Cut out your template and file the edges smooth.
• Using your half round needle file, file down the thickness at the tip of the cone.
• Anneal.
• Mark lines from the center out to the bottom with your scribe.
• Place in the vise and bend.
• Bend around so that the edges meet.
• Hammer on shoulders to bring edge in close together.
• Solder and pickle.
• Hammer on the cone stake to round out the form.
• Planish.
• Check against the steel square to make sure the sides of the cone are straight and not flared.
• File the bottom edge flat. Use the steel square to make sure you are filing evenly.
• Solder to a bottom plate.
• Cut off any excess and file.
• File and sand the cone to 600.

Tips and tricks:

• The thinner to tip of your cone is, the easier it will bend around.
• To make sure that your cone is indeed round, trace around the bottom on a sheet of paper. Rotate the form slightly and make sure that it still lines up with the drawing.
• If drilling an airhole, do that in the bottom plate before soldering.
• For an open top cone, mark where you want the cone to end on your profile drawing. Draw a ¾ around those marks as well as the bottom marks. If you are doing an open top cone, there is no need to file down the thickness at the top edge.

Homework:

Using 20ga. brass, create a closed cone. The cone should be 1.5-2” high with a 1-2” diameter. The cone should be finished, filed and sanded to 600 grit. There should be no visible airhole.

Due beginning of class October 10.

Lesson 6: Sweat Soldering

Lesson 6: Sweat Soldering

Sweat soldering is the best way to attach large overlapping pieces of metal together. There are 2 common methods for sweat soldering- sandwiching and feeding. Sweat soldering allows you to place pierced out designs onto another sheet of metal.

Make sure that both pieces of metal are clean and flat. All burs from filing and piercing should be removed.

Tips:

• Sweat soldering takes a lot more solder than you think it will- remember that the entire area needs to have solder on it.
• Leave a small area that you can cut off afterwards as a place to feed any additional solder into.
• Place sweat soldering piece on grates or tripods to allow for quickest heating of the pieces. The soldering boards absorb heat.
• The entire piece(s) need to get hot all around in order for the solder to fully flow.
• Sweat soldering is easiest when the pieces are flat. Once soldered, form with plastic mallet.

Sweat Soldering- Laminate method

• If one of your pieces has piercing or a smaller area than the other, this is your top piece.
• Clean both surfaces to be soldered well- no dirt or oils on the metal.
• Both surfaces should be clean and fit together well.
• Lay your top piece on the soldering board face down so that the side that will be soldered is up.
• Flux and heat your flux until clear.
• Place chips of solder all over the piece.
• Heat until the solder begins to slump and flow. Do not let it flow completely!
• Pickle and brass brush.
• Reflux the piece and lay with the solder side down on top of your bottom piece.
• Use cotter pins, cross tweezers, or third hands to apply a small amount of pressure- holding the 2 sides together.
• Heat until the solder flows.

Sweat soldering- Sandwich method

• Clean both surfaces to be soldered well- no dirt or oils on the metal.
• Flux both surfaces to be soldered.
• Heat top piece until the flux is clear.
• Place solder chips all over the top piece.
• Place the bottom piece over the top piece and clamp together.
• Heat until the solder flows.

You should be able to see your solder line around every edge of the piece.

If you do not see that solder line, you need more solder.

Feed in any additional solder from the easiest area to clean up afterwards.

Project 1

Project 1: Compound Shapes

Combine at least 2 of the basic shapes to form a compound shape. Play with the measurements, proportions, and scale to come up 3 variations on that shape. This form(s) should be the central focus of the piece(s). The overall design is up to you, I recommend working with the maquettes to determine what you want to make.

Skills I want you to focus on and use in this piece are: fitting shapes together at angles or on curves, soldering skills, creation of the compound form.

Think about proportions and overall size.

Sketch 5 different ideas on compound shapes and pieces, 3 proportional variations on each. Make a maquette of your top shape idea. Sketch out and demonstrate how/if the pieces will connect and be integrated into the piece.

Lesson 4: Pyramid

Lesson 4: Pyramid

• Draw out your pyramid from a side (profile) view. Do this on paper first, and then on metal.
• Measure from the tip of the pyramid to the bottom points, set dividers, and scribe an arc.
• If doing an open top, follow the same step to scribe the arc for the top as well.
• Measure the distance between the 2 bottom points, and set dividers to that distance.
• Mark off that distance 2 times on the right and one on the left for a total of 4 sides. Make tic marks where the dividers meet the scribed arc.
• Repeat with the top marks if open.
• Draw a straight line connecting the each point where the arc and tic marks intersect. This will mark out your 4 sides.
• Repeat with the top set of marks if open.
• Draw straight lines from the center point out through the intersections.
• Make sure that these lines are scribed deep and straight.
• Cut out your template.
• File the edges.
• If closed, file the down the thickness of the metal at the top.
• Begin with your triangle (3-square) needle file and score along the deep scribe marks.
• When you are 2/3 of the way through the thickness of the metal, switch to your square needle file.
• You should be 95-98% of the way through the thickness of the metal.
• File the side edges of the template to a 45 degree angle.
• Measure the thickness of your metal (20ga=.8mm). Mark this distance on the top of your sheet.
• File from the bottom edge to that line- this will give you a 45 degree angle.
• Bend the pyramid together along the scored lines.
• Solder all of the score/bend joints.
• Solder the 2 edges together.
• Hold with binding wire if needed while soldering.
• Use your triangle or square needle file to clean up any excess solder- both inside and out.
• True the form on the square bezel or ring mandrel, or on the small anvil.
• Planish the sides.
• File the bottom edges flat.
• Use the steel square to make sure that all angles are 90 degrees.
• Solder to a bottom plate.
• If open, also solder to a top plate.
• Cut off excess and file.
• File and sand to 600 grit.

Homework:

Using 20 ga. brass, create an open-top pyramid. Height between 1-1.5”, and the bottom of each side should be no smaller than 1”. Pyramid should be soldered both top and bottom with no visible airholes and finished to 600 grit.

Due beginning of class October 3.

Lesson 3: Cube

Lesson 7: Cube

• Measure out the height of your cube onto a sheet of metal and mark with dividers.
• Cut a strip with the bench shear on your divider mark.
• Use the steel square to make sure that one end is at a right angle.
• Measure out the width for each side (for a perfect cube this is the same measurement as the height) and mark with a steel square.
• Cut off any excess with the bench shear and square the ends.
• Use your scribe and metal ruler (or steel square) to scribe a deep line for each corner seam.
• Use your triangle needle file and file down into the thickness of the metal at those points.
• When you have gotten 2/3 of the way though the metal, switch to your square needle file.
• Continue filing until you are almost all the way through the metal.
• You should be able to see a thin score line coming through the metal on the back.
• The closer you are to going through the metal, the sharper your corner will be.
• File the 2 ends of the strip at 45 degree angles.
• Bend the filed sides together.
• The ends should meet up as well.
• Hold with binding wire and solder all the corner seams.
• File the top and bottom edges flat.
• Double check all measurements.
• Solder to a bottom and top plate.
• Plug the air hole if using one.
• Cut off excess sheet, file and sand.

Tips and Tricks:

• Remember that the thickness of your top and bottom plates will add height to your cube- so you need to subtract 2* thickness when marking the height of your strip. Example: For a 20mm cube in 20ga metal, the height of the strip should be 18.4mm (20-2(.8)).
• Make sure to file slowly at first and keep your scoring perpendicular- check it!
• If you are having trouble doing all of the sides on one strip, do 2 strips. File each end of the strips at a 45 degree angle and score down the center.

Homework:

Make a 20-30mm square cube out of 20ga. brass. The cube should be the same measurements on all sides, and all sides should be square. File and sand the cube to 400 grit.

Due at the beginning of class Sept 26^th.

Lesson 2: Cylinder

Lesson 2: Cylinder

• Cut a strip for the ring.
• To calculate the length of the strip: C=πD
• C is circumference of your circle/ring, the length of the strip you are cutting.
• D is the diameter of the circle.
• Pi = π = 3.14
• Example: If you want a 2” diameter cylinder, π(2)= 6.28”= the length of the strip.
• Mark a line at each end of the strip with your dividers.
• Place the strip in the vise with the protective plates in place. The line you scribed should line up with the top of the vise.
• Push over to bend.
• Repeat with the other side.
• Bend in the center of the strip so that the edges meet.
• Bring the edges down so that they meet level. To do this, hammer with a mallet on the shoulders of the ring to bring them in.
• You want the ends to meet level so that there is the most contact between them to create the strongest soldering joint. If the edges meet at an angle the joint is more likely to crack under stress from forming.
• Work the edges over and under to create tension.
• Solder.
• If you have solder spillage, file that off now. If the seam is pretty neat, don’t worry about it- check inside and outside!
• Place on a mandrel, and hammer with a mallet to round out the ring.
• Flip ring partway through if using a tapered mandrel
• Planish the ring. Begin at the seam, rotate the ring around while hammering and end at the seam.
• Check that the sides of the cylinder are parallel and not flared by placing it on the steel square.
• Mark any areas that are too low (where you see daylight) and hammer those areas.
• File the top and bottom edges flat.
• Use the steel square to make sure you are filing flat and not at an angle.
• Solder your cylinder to a bottom plate.
• Drill a small hole in the bottom plate for your air hole.
• Cut off the excess bottom plate.
• Solder cylinder to a top plate.
• Cut off the excess.
• Close your airhole.
• File and sand your cylinder to 600 grit.

To close your airhole:

·         After you are certain that the solder seams are complete on your piece, neutralize the pickle and draw out all water.

·         It is very important to make sure that there is no water left in your piece before plugging the airhole!

·         Heat the piece very gently (as if you were annealing) until all water has evaporated.

·         Cut a small piece of wire that fits tightly into your airhole. The wire should stick up above the top surface by about 1-2mm.

·         Flux and solder.

·         It is very important that you solder the wire in place with one try! Double check that it is fully soldered before placing in the pickle.

·         Clip off excess wire, and file flush to the surface.

Tips and tricks:

• When deciding on what diameter you want for your cylinder, make sure that you have stakes to hammer and form with that are a bit smaller than your diameter. Otherwise you will not be able to fit onto a mandrel until it is already perfectly round. Likewise, make sure we have a mandrel that is very close to your final diameter otherwise rounding and planishing are trickier.
• If you are using a tapered mandrel, hammer the bottom half of the ring, flip it over on the mandrel, and hammer. This way you are hammering on the same part of the mandrel.
• When soldering your ring together, place the ring on top of a solder ball. When the ring drops down to the surface of the board, you know that solder has melted. This also reduces cleanup.
• If you need a mandrel to form around, pipe from the hardware store is an excellent solution.

Homework:

Create a cylinder from 20ga. brass. The cylinder should be 1.5-2” tall with a diameter no smaller than ¾”. The cylinder should be sanded to 600 grit.

Due at the beginning of class September 12

Lesson 1: Sphere

Lesson 2: Sphere

• Cut out 2 disks with the same diameter- either by saw or with the disc cutter. The disc cutter has a limited range of diameters.
• Anneal.
• Dap using the block and punches.
• Your disk should sit 1/3-1/2 of the way down in the first depression.
• Listen for the solid ping of the punch, not the hollow thud.
• After annealing, your disk is dull. As it comes in contact with the surface of the dapping block it will become shiny. Look for this to ensure that you are dapping evenly.
• Anneal after every 3 hole shifts on the block.
• Measure your hemispheres: 2h=d
• (two times the height of your hemisphere should equal the diameter of your hemisphere)
• Continue dapping until you have the measurements correct.
• Find the dapping punch that fits your sphere tightly, and place it in the vise.
• Planish with the flat side of a planishing hammer in concentric circles from the center out to the edge. Planishing trues the shape/form to the stake you are using. It is the best way to make certain that you shape is accurate and even.
• You should always hit in the same place on the punch, and rotate your hemisphere around.
• Your hammer marks should be even and cover the entire surface. You do not need to hit hard- this is fine-tuning your shape, not smashing it!
• File the edges of your hemispheres flat.
• Measure to double check that 2h=d is still true.
• Make any adjustments if the measurements are off.
• Drill a small hole in one of the hemispheres.
• Solder hemispheres together.
• You can use binding wire to hold the 2 pieces together- the binding wire should be perpendicular to the seam. Place the bound sphere on a mesh plate or in the annealing rocks to prevent it from rolling away. You can also use the straight pins to create a “box for the sphere. 
• Pickle.
• Put sphere into baking soda/water mix to neutralize any remaining pickle. When the piece stops bubbling, the pickle is neutralized.
• Draw out baking soda solution with syringe, flush interior with water to make sure all pickle residue is gone, and dry.
• File off the planishing marks- make sure that you file smoothly- your sphere should not look faceted!!
• Sand with 320 and 400 grit sandpaper.

Tips and tricks:

• If you want the disks a different size than the disc cutter allows, use your dividers to mark the circle and pierce out. File the edges so that the disk is as close to a perfect circle as it can be.
• If you have finished with a hole, and the next one is slightly too small, take a smaller punch, and hit a few times in the hole you just finished. This will bring the edges in slightly.
• Then use that same smaller punch to hit in the center of your piece on the new hole to help get it down in the hole without marring the outside surface on the edges.
• If your hemisphere gets stuck in a hole, use a smaller punch and tap a few times to release it.
• When you dap, the outside lip of your hemisphere is at an angle. You will be filing off that angle to solder. This affects your height measurement. Err on the side of making the height slightly larger (app.5mm) so that when you file the lip flat, the measurement should be perfect. You can file down more if it is still too tall.
• After filing the edges flat, use the scraper to remove the bur created by fining. This will let you see the edge clearer and allows you to double check that everything matches up correctly.
• When drilling on a concave/convex surface, always drill from the concave side. The form will automatically center the drill bit at the lowest point eliminating the need to center punch.
• Instead of using binding wire to hold your hemispheres together, you can push 4 straight pins into the board to form a cage around your halves. For best results, the pins should bend in towards each other at the top.

Homework:

Create a sphere from 20ga brass. The diameter of the sphere should be no smaller than 3/4 inch. The sphere should be sanded to 600 grit. I will be measuring and rolling your spheres on a flat surface to check accuracy!!

Due: Beginning of class September 19