Project 2

Project 2:

For your final project, create a compound shape. Then cut that shape apart and re-work it (by soldering it together in a different order, by making each bit a separate piece, by forging the pieces individually, etc.) to create a new piece(s). The new piece must have one movable connection.

Consider the surfaces of the piece- different surface treatments, metals, textures, patinas, etc. Think about what you want the final piece to be- object, wearable- and technical considerations that apply- connections, display base, clasp, etc.

Due next class:

5-10 Sketches of the compound shape and alterations. Scale maquette of your favorite. Create a rough outline of steps of fabrication from original shape through final form(s).

Final piece due beginning of class December 12. 

Lesson 8: Connections

Lesson 8: Connections

Connections for hollow constructions can be simple or very complex. Because of the steps of construction, you need to have a blueprint for your connections as you start fabrication since many connections need to be set up or fabricated in between hollow construction steps.

T-Bar or Ball/Socket links:

Both the T-bar and and Ball/Socket links function the same way. The crossbar of the T or ball sits inside the hollow construction. The other side can either be a fixed link soldered onto the form or the same (sitting inside for movement)

• Create your hollow forms but leave them open.
• Create the links- only put T or ball on one side.
• Drill hole in your form where the connection point is and slide link through hole.
• Solder that form closed. Hold the part of the link outside the form in a third hand to prevent from dropping into the form.
• When doing this you do not need an additional air hole.
• If fixed on other side:
• Close second form- placing the air hole where the connection point will be is will allow you to hide the hole under the link.
• Solder link to second form (over air hole if applicable)
• If moveable:
• Drill hole for connection in second form.
• Feed link through hole.
• Solder second T or ball onto the end of the link inside the form.
• Solder the form closed.

Jump Rings:

• Close your forms.
• Solder half jump rings to the form where you want your connections.
• Finish the forms to final finish (minus patina).
• Link the forms together and solder the final ring.

Tube Hinges:

Tube hinges work best for longer hinges.

• Close forms.
• Solder knuckles on to forms.
• Solder knuckles to one side, then measure and mark the other side. Cut the tubing a little longer than you need so you can file down for a perfect fit.
• Ball one end of the hinge pin and feed through.
• Set the other end.
• For tricky and inset hinges, chasing tools work well to reach into tight areas.

Sheet/Rod hinges:

These types of hinges can work very well for hollow forms and for small hinges.

• Take a sheet and fold into a U.
• Alternately cut out a slot in a thicker rod to form a U shape.
• Fit single sheet or rod into the opening to complete the hinge.
• Drill hole through.
• Solder U to first form.
• Solder single sheet or rod to other form.
• Ball up one side of hinge pin and feed through.
• Set other side.

Rivets:

You can rivet forms together as well. This is tricky, and mostly used for when you want 2 forms pivoting around each other.

• Create forms but leave open. One form should have the side to be riveted already attached, then other one should not.
• Drill hole for your rivet.
• Ball one end of the wire, feed through the separate sheet and cut to length.
• Place on block and set.
• Solder both forms closed.

Other connections:

• Drill holes and feed a jump ring through the holes.
• Drill holes and thread together. Feed small lengths of tube between forms to separate.

Lesson 7: Finishing Techniques

Lesson 7: Finishing Techniques

Order of operations and steps of construction are very important in Hollow Construction. Think about your surfaces at the beginning when you are designing your piece. All of the finishing techniques you have learned can be applied to hollow forms, but some of them need to happen earlier in the process than they would otherwise.

Sanding:

• For flat surfaces, the sanding discs work very well. Remember to rotate the piece evenly.
• Check each grit before moving to the next one.
• For curved surfaces- wrap sandpaper around paint stirring sticks or your file to create a sanding “file”. This will also help keep the surfaces smooth and even. Make sure to cover as much of the surface as possible with each stroke.
• Sand in circles for a matte finish, in one direction for a shinier look.
• You can get a shiny look by moving up in sandpaper grit.

Polishing:

• Be careful polishing on the buffing machine. If you lose your grip and your piece goes flying it can dent.
• Smaller surfaces can be polished on the flexshaft.
• If you want to highlight the corners and edges, burnish them. This adds the touch of polish and highlights the form without being super shiny.

Textures:

Roll Printing:

• Roll print and texture on the sheet before cutting and forming. This way you can choose the best areas to use for your piece.
• When soldering, the solder will want to flow and fill in your texture.
• When possible, have the textured side face down when soldering so you are soldering on the back surface.
• Alternately, you can paint your texture with yellow ochre to help prevent solder from flowing there. Be careful that you don’t get any on your joints!
• You won’t be able to planish your forms, so spend extra time with the mallets.

Stamping and Hammer textures:

• For all over stamped textures, follow the roll printing steps.
• For selective stamping; planish, file and sand the forms. Then place back on the mandrel and stamp.
• For the top and bottom, mark where you will be soldering and then stamp.
• For hammer textures, planish, file and sand to 320. Then place the form back on the mandrel and hammer for texture. File and sand the tops after this.
• For the top and bottom, mark where you will be soldering and hammer texture just past that point.

Patinas:

• Patinas go on at the end, as usual. Make sure to seal patinas. Some patinas will make seams more noticeable- be careful of that!

Finishing tips:

• Do not use the tumbler! The steel shot can go into your air holes and then it’s stuck. If you have an open form or one with a lot of piercework, you can tumble.
• Make sure you have filed and sanded away all solder spill. If you are in doubt or having trouble telling, heat the piece gently. This will start to discolor the metal and the solder will show prominently.
• Be patient.
• Pull out your dust tray when filing and sanding- line it with a soft towel. The most common casualty in hollow construction pieces is dropping them, leading to dents.
• Think ahead. If the next step is going to make an area unreachable or really difficult to sand and finish well, do it now.